The history of painting

History of the trade.

In England, little is known of the trade and its structures before the late 1200s, at which point guilds began to form, amongst them the Painters Company and the Stainers Company. These two guilds eventually merged with the consent of the Lord Mayor of London in 1502, forming the Painter-Stainers Company. The guild standardised the craft and acted as a protector of the trade secrets, in 1599 asking Parliament for protection, which was eventually granted in a bill of 1606, which granted the trade protection from outside competition such as plasterers.

The Act legislated for a seven year apprenticeship, and also barred plasterers from painting, unless apprenticed to a painter, with the penalty for such painting being a fine of £5. The Act also enshrined a maximum daily fee of 16 old pence for their labour.

Enforcement of this Act by the Painter-Stainers Company was sought up until the early 1800s, with master painters gathering irregularly to decide the fees which a journeyman could charge, and also instigating an early version of a job centre in 1769, advertising in the London newspapers a "house of call" system which allowed masters to advertise for journeymen and also for journeymen to advertise for work. The guild's power in setting the fee a journeyman could charge was eventually overturned by law in 1827, and the period after this saw the guild's power diminish, along with that of the other guilds; the guilds were superseded by trade unions, with the Operative United Painters' Union formed sometime around 1831.

In 1894 a national association formed, recreating itself in 1918 as the National Federation of Master Painters and Decorators of England and Wales, changing its name once again to the British Decorators Association before merging, in 2002, with the Painting & Decorating Federation to form the Painting & Decorating Association. The Construction Industry Joint Council, a body formed of both unions and business organizations, today has responsibility for the setting of pay levels.

Activities of the trade.

Historically, the painter and decorator was responsible for the mixing of the paint; keeping a ready supply of pigments, oils, thinners, driers and sundries. The painter would use his experience to determine a suitable mixture dependent upon the nature of the job. This role has reduced almost to zero as modern paint manufacturing techniques and architect specifications have created a reliance on brand label products.

Larger firms operating within the trade were generally capable of performing many painting or decoration services, from signwriting, to the gilding of objects or even the finishing or re-finishing of furniture.

More recently, professional painters are responsible for all preparation prior to painting. All scraping, sanding, wallpaper removal, caulking, wall or wood repair, patching, stain removal, compound, filling (of nail holes or any others with patch or putty), cleaning, taping, preparation and priming are considered to be done by the professional contracted painter. Usually being the last into a construction site or job, Although the painters are very rarely held responsible for making the job look presentable.

Professional painters need to have keen knowledge of the tools including sanders, scrapers, sprayers, brushes, rollers, ladders, scaffolding, in addition to just the paint in order to correctly complete work. Much preparation needs to be considered before simply applying paint. For instance, taping and dropcloth techniques, sizes of brushes or rollers, material types or dimensions of rollers or brushes (there are different sizes or types of brushes and rollers for different paints), amount of paint, amount of paint coats, amount of primer, types of primers and paints, certain grits and cuts of sandpaper, trim cutting (the act of painting with a brush on the outline of baseboard, moldings and other trim work), wallpaper removal, and nailhole filling techniques just to name a few.

Today many Painters are attempting to break into the field of Faux Painting, allowing them more creativity and access to a higher end customer base.

Keys and tumbler locks

Nick Cosentino is a veteran of over 40 years in the trades.  He is also the founder and owner of the esteemed and well respected Old Masters Construction Company in Chicago, Illinois.  A company known for its incredible attention to detail, artisan craftsmanship and high customer satisfaction. 

Hey Nick,

Q: Hope you won't mind me asking a question of you, but it sounds like you’ve got experience in this area. I want to get a locksmith to come out because I have 3 or 4 separate keys for getting into the house and I want to get it down to one key for all locks. I was told by two locksmiths I called that there's a $29 fee to come out, then each lock would be $19 to re-do, but the price depends on the number of pins in the lock. I have no clue how many pins this could be; they're just average looking locks. I don't want to have him come out only to find there are 12 pins per lock and it would be a lot to fix it.
Your thoughts?
Thanks,
CIndy

A.
Hi Cindy,
Well, first of all you can easily find out how many pins a lock has by looking at the key that fits the lock. Look at a key and you will see the cuts in the keys that look like little mountains or a roller coaster track. They go up and down, a high point and a low making a grove. It is the groves that the lock "pins" rest in to engage the lock to open or close. Most standard locks have about 5 pins in them.

Go to PIN TUMBLER LOCK at Wikipedia and you'll see an illustration. 

Keyed to like locks shouldn't cost that much. For 4 locks, a locksmith should cost around

$ 30.00 - $ 45.00 to come out ($ 29.00 is a good price) and about $ 20.00 - $ 25.00 per lock for getting matched to the others.

If you're worried about how many pins makes the cost higher, ask the locksmith before he (she) comes out, how many pins would there have to be for a higher charge...what do they consider average for a lock. Then when you counted the groves on your keys and they all look like there's an average of 4, or 5 pin groves.

Hope this helps...let me know.
Ciao,
Nick

Lets talk Stairs

Nick Cosentino is a veteran of over 40 years in the trades.  He is also the founder and owner of the esteemed and well respected Old Masters Construction Company in Chicago, Illinois.  A company known for its incredible attention to detail, artisan craftsmanship and high customer satisfaction.

Hey Nick,

Q:  I’ve always been fascinated with stairs, there are so many different kinds and some are very beautiful.  My question is, is there a rule of thumb for building stairs?  Like are there particular measurements that should be followed and if so why?

A:  Stairs add to the elegance of any room. They are a focal point in design. Elegant stairs can give a home, room or area personality. A beautiful stairwell not only provides functionality, it also adds character.

Many people might not realize the complexity involved in building any stair system. Even though we climb or descend thousands of stairs every year.

First, stairs should be comfortable to climb. They must be easy on your back upon ascent and just as easy and safe on your body when you descend. There are also approximate and similar heights in the rise for every stair and there are similar sizes even for the step itself.

A stairs rise (or the distance in height between each step), is designed that way for a reason. The rise is usually between 7 - 8 inches. The step, which is also known as the thread, also has approximate measurements for a foot to feel comfortable. The tread is usually between 10 - 12 inches. Anything under or over these measurements might be might not feel right to most people. That's not saying that there aren't plenty of staircases around that do not follow these measurements and they function just fine. But these measurements are the standard in the trades because it was determined over time that this was the most comfortable for the average body.

Here are some common terminology and definitions.

Tread - The part of the step that is stepped on. It is constructed to the same specifications (thickness) as any other flooring. The tread "length" is measured from the outer edge of the step to the vertical "riser" between steps.

Riser - The vertical portion of the step between steps. This may be missing for an "open" stair effect.

Nosing - An edge part of the tread that protrudes from the riser beneath. If it is present, this means that horizontally, the total "run" length of the stairs is not simply the sum of the tread lengths, the treads actually overlap each other slightly

Bulnose - Where stairs are open on one or both sides, the first step above the lower floor may be wider than the other steps and rounded. The rounded portion of the step is called a "Bulnose". The pickets typically form a semi-circle around the circumference of the Bulnose and the handrail has a horizontal spiral called a "volute". Besides the cosmetic appeal, bull noses allow the pickets to form a wider, more stable base for the end of the handrail. Handrails that simply end at a post at the foot of the stairs are usually unstable, even with a thick post. A double Bulnose can be used when both sides of the stairs are open.

Winders - Winders are steps that are narrower on one side than the other. They are used to change the direction of the stairs without landings. A series of winders form a circular or spiral stairway. When three steps are used to turn a 90° corner, the middle step is called a kite winder due to its similarity to a diamond-shaped kite.

Stringer (stringer board or sometimes just string) - The structural member that supports the treads. There are typically two stringers, one on either side of the stairs; though the treads may be supported many other ways. The stringers are notched so that the risers and treads fit into them. Stringers on open-sided stairs are often open themselves so that the treads are visible from the side. Such stringers are called "cut" stringers. Stringers on a closed side of the stairs are closed, with the support for the treads routed into the stringer.

Trim - Trim (e.g. quarter-round or baseboard trim) is normally applied where walls meet floors. Within a flight of stairs there is no trim as the trim thickness will significantly eat into the tread width. Shoe molding may be used between the lower floor and the first riser. Trimming a Bulnose is a special challenge as the last riser above the lower floor is rounded. Today, special flexible, plastic trim is available for this purpose. Scotia is concave molding that is underneath the nosing between the riser and the tread above it.

However, many people might not even realize the complexity involved in building any stair

Asking for references

Nick Cosentino is a veteran of over 40 years in the trades.  He is also the founder and owner of the esteemed and well respected Old Masters Construction Company in Chicago, Illinois.  A company known for its incredible attention to detail, artisan craftsmanship and high customer satisfaction. 

Hey Nick,

Q:  Should I ask for references when choosing a contractor for a project?

A:  Yes, without question. As a matter of fact, ask if you can go and see some of their work personally. Nothing shows you the work quality or lack of it more than an inspection that you’ve made with your own eyes.

Q:   How many references should I expect?

A:   Well, everyone is different but most contractors will give you 3. But you should ask for more…at least 5. But, you should also ask the contractor if you weren’t satisfied with that 3 or 5 would they have more if you requested it? Make sure that you imply this might be more than a possibility. If they say no then you should end your negotiations immediately. There is no contractor, who is worth their salt, who will not want to show off their work. Also, as far as references, you should ask for the most recent project they’ve done, even one that they are currently working on. Nothing fares better than to see what a recent or current customer has to say about a contractor than the project they have either just completed or is near completion. Keep in mind though that any particular customer may have expected too much for the money they paid or may have been difficult to work with for anybody. You need to be able to sort out the personality. If this becomes the case then simply ask the contractor for the project they did just before that one (after you’ve talked to that first particular customer that is). Chances are there won’t be 2 in a row, unless the contractor was the problem all along. If that’s the reason then you know what to do. One other reason a contractor might not want to have you contact a recent customer though is truly legitimate. Because he may have already given them as references to other potential clients before you and it may exceed a comfortable number. If that’s the case, he will let you know and just go onto another recent customer where that’s not a problem (but don’t ask the contractor if that’s the reason, let them volunteer that information).

Q:  What should I expect when I receive the contractor’s reference list?

A:   Expect at least phone numbers. The contractor may be reluctant to give out addresses, and rightfully so, but in your conversation with that past customer ask them if they would mind if you came by. Not everybody is OK with that though, they might not mind answering your questions about the contractor by phone but they might not like the idea of strangers coming to their home. This is not always the case of course but on occasion it can be. You should also call or attempt to call each reference. If there is a project that resembles yours or a portion of yours, then you should ask if you can come by to see it. If the reference is OK with that then try to make a convenient appointment that is good for them, tell them how much you appreciate it and that you don’t want to impose on them. Remember, this may be you in the future.

Q:   Is it necessary that the contractor accompany me on a reference call?

A:   No, as a matter of fact, it’s better if they don’t. It leaves you with the opportunity to ask the questions that you think are important.

Q:   What kind of questions should I ask of a contractor’s reference?

A:    Well, in my opinion these would be some important questions that I would ask if I was hiring someone like this:

1. How did you come to meet this contractor? Do you have a past history with them?

2. What did you think of the quality of this contractors work?

3. Are you satisfied that you got what you paid for?

4. Did you like the crew?

5. Were there any problems on the project and were you satisfied with the outcome if so?

6. Would you hire this contractor again for a different project?

7. Would you recommend them to your family or friends?

8. Can I see the work they did for you?

9. Is there anything in particular that you are impressed with?

10 Is there anything in particular that you are disappointed or not satisfied with?

Of course you may have a question or more yourself, but costs or money should not be one of them. That can be a very uncomfortable subject to talk about and unless they volunteer that information without it being prompted by you then I would advise to steer away from it.

You should leave with a good sense of what this contractor is like after a meeting like this but I would suggest that you at least see more than one project. You will get a better feel for everything this way. While 2 should suffice, 3 will be even better (but not always necessary). Maybe because of your own schedule, more than one house calls will be difficult to do, but phone calls should always be made…and the more the merrier. Remember, you’re looking to be comfortable with a decision, so the more info the better.

Finding a good contractor

Nick Cosentino is a veteran of over 40 years in the trades.  He is also the founder and owner of the esteemed and well respected Old Masters Construction Company in Chicago, Illinois.  A company known for its incredible attention to detail, artisan craftsmanship and high customer satisfaction. 

Hey Nick,

Q: How do I go about finding a good contractor for my remodeling project?

A: First, there are many excellent contractors throughout the city and your area. The trick is finding one that not only fits your needs and project, but also your personality.

Q: Why my personality?

A:   Well, let’s explore that. Say you are very hands on; you like to ask a lot of questions. Wouldn’t you want to work with someone who will have patience with you and/or gladly answer them? Believe it or not there are contractors who just want to be left alone, do their job and go home. They can get annoyed when they’re disturbed and have to stop what they are doing just to tend to you. Maybe you don’t like that answer but it’s true. Some trades people are like machines. They have calculated their time and know how long something should take for them to make the money they expect to make for a particular project. A distraction for them means a loss of time, which in turn creates a loss of money. Plus, some contractors have a tunnel vision mentality, needing to focus on the task at hand to assure no mistakes are made, which can also lead to loss time and money.

Then there are contractors who just love what they’re doing and it’s not just about how much money they are making, but the love of the craft. They are usually open to change (even unplanned change), and the appeal of the project and the finished outcome is important to them. That…and they genuinely want to please you. That’s not saying the tunnel vision person is less skilled or wants less to please a customer, it’s just a different approach to doing things. Maybe you’re the same way? Do you like just to be left alone so you can complete a task or do you not mind stopping to answer someone’s query and then able to easily go back to what you were doing? Imagine working with someone who was your opposite? Maybe you already do at your own job…how does that feel?

Then again, maybe you’d rather have a no nonsense type of person working for you? Maybe, you admire that. Someone who comes in does what they’re supposed to do and gets the hell out of there. But, if you’re the type of person who likes to see or know what’s going on, or maybe you like the option of being able to change things because your vision changed as the project was going on, then you’re going to need someone who has a much more open mind and shares your personality.


Q:   How do I know if the person I’m talking to is good at what they do as opposed to being able to talk as if they do?

A:  You can’t, you don’t and you won’t. Unless you know that person personally, or have witnessed their work more than once, then it’s impossible to know.

Q:  Then, how do I go about finding that out?

Well, there are a few things. First, really listen to them. Do they sound like they know what they’re talking about? Do you trust your ears or is there something in your gut that’s telling you different? Always trust your gut…it will never lie to you. It’s called instinct of course and we all have it. Some of us don’t pay attention to that small detail at times and it always comes back to haunt us in the end. If something doesn’t seem right, it probably isn’t. Trust your instincts and move on. In my opinion, we should pick professionals of any kind the same way we pick our friends. Think about that, there are people you know…acquaintances that you wouldn’t call friends and then there are your friends, warts and all. What’s the difference? That’s simple…it’s trust. And you knew it from the beginning didn’t you?

Q:  Ok, I talked to this person and they sound reasonable, what’s next?

A:  Next is, what are you looking for? What kind of contractor? Are you looking for someone who specializes in exactly one trade or are you looking for someone who does more than just one. There are different levels of both. Let’s begin with the specialist. That’s all they do. If it is tile work, drywall or even electrical. They specifically work in that particular field. But, you have different types too.  For your convenience and in my opinion, I broke down the differences in this way:

The tradesman (or person).

They are good at what they do. It’s a science to them. They are usually applicators and most are very good at it. There is a certain amount of time required to learn a trade well and they have gone through that time, sometimes years. If it’s straight forward, and if that’s all you need, then this is the person for you.

The Craftsman

It’s more than just a science of application; it’s a science of that specific work. Why does this material work better than another? How will the room temperature or traffic affect it? What’s wise to do or not and why? What’s just as good, if not better and has less of a cost? How long can your choice of materials to be used and also be expected to last and so forth? When everything is adequately explained, then they will execute the project.

The Artisan

All of the above and they also design, do intricate detail and have an artistic outcome. Not only do they know specifics but usually implement tricks only years and experience can afford someone. Some, they may have invented themselves. They have a love affair with this trade. There is attention to every detail and perfection is expected from their staff and more so, even themselves. They may not be the cheapest one on the block, but chances are they are the best and/or have few peers.

Next week:  Asking for References.